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Article by Roger Lohr
In the winter, the snow-covered hills are alive in Vermont beckoning cross country skiing families, couples, and individuals aged five to 95. In 1968, the famous vonTrapp family developed the first established cross country ski center in Stowe, and now each year thousands of recreational cross country skiers make the sojourn to the Green Mountain State for the beauty and serenity of winter outdoor recreation and rewarding wellness associated with cross country (XC) skiing. Vermont’s XC ski areas range from packed trails heading out from a barn that offer stunning views to top notch facilities with trails maintained by snowcats and covered by snowmaking. Many resorts offer equipment rentals, clinics and lessons, and retail goods for what cross country skiers need to get started. Some cross country ski resorts have guided tours and luxurious overnight accommodations.
The vonTrapp Family was made famous in the movie The Sound of Music and the lodge extends the legend to share with all who visit. Only 38 miles from Burlington, VT the Trapp Family Lodge has more than 90 rooms in the lodge and many more guest chalets and villas that are ski-in, ski-out. There is an indoor swimming pool and rec center, programs for the kids and a spa or massage for adults. On a 110 kilometer trail network, skiers can head to the Slayton Pasture Cabin nestled in the woods about 3 miles (with a portion uphill) to a destination to relax or enjoy soup, sandwiches, hot coco, and homemade cookies served fireside. Dining in the Trapp Family Lodge includes the European-style Dining Room for breakfast and dinner and lighter fare with music in the Lounge. The Bierhall is a spacious, authentic Bierhall serving lunch and dinner with a large brewery attached to it.
Another destination is the Woodstock Inn Resort & Nordic Center which has more than 45 km of skiing right in the town of Woodstock, VT on two trail systems. The Mount Peg trails begin on the golf course at the Woodstock Country Club and climb to the summit overlooking the village below. On nearby Mt. Tom, the Center grooms more than 20 km of trails on old carriage roads in the midst of Vermont's first tree farm and Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park. They are great snow farmers to preserve the trails when other XC areas are closed and the center has an extensive retail shop, too. Travelers enjoy shops and restaurants in Woodstock, one of the quintessential Vermont towns.
Further east, the Mountain Top Inn & Resort Nordic Ski & Snowshoe Center is in Chittenden, VT with 60 km of trails and 2 km of trails covered with snowmaking. Located on 350 acres, the Mountain Top Inn & Resort is tucked away in high country and only 11 miles from Killington. The trails are well manicured and provide sweeping views of the pristine mountain lake and the expansive Green Mountain National Forest. Apres ski at the inn features a full service spa and salon that will allow you to relax and rejuvenate.
Closer to the western border of Vermont is Rikert Nordic Center at the Breadloaf Campus of Middlebury College. The area was the recipient of an alumni donation to install 5 km of snowmaking, which makes it the largest trail system of its type among cross country ski areas in America. There are 20 snowguns, which provide 250 gallons of water per minute so that 5 km of trails can be covered in about 200 hours. Rikert’s trails interconnect with the Catamount Trail, which runs north-south from border to border in Vermont. Another destination along the Rikert trails is the Robert Frost Cabin.
The Sleepy Hollow Inn is a family-run operation that has 35 km of trails. It is one of the most sustainable ski areas in the country, with a total of 32 kw from solar panel arrays to provide for electric needs that includes power for a snowmaking system used to guarantee snow early in the season. There is also solar-heated hot water and they use conservation techniques for the operation and the surrounding forestry. Responsible and sustainable undertakings include woodstoves for heat, reuse of towels, efficient lighting, chemical free cleaning products, and an organic maple sugaring operation.
The Craftsbury Outdoor Center is a non-profit organization in Craftsbury Common, whose mission is supporting and promoting participation in cross country skiing, rowing, and running as lifelong sports, using and teaching sustainable practices while protecting and managing the surrounding environment. There are 85 km of groomed trails at Craftsbury, which is home of the largest ski marathon in the east.
Some of the alpine ski resorts offer cross country ski trails as a supplementary activity to alpine skiing and snowboarding. Bolton Valley is located above 2,000 feet of altitude so it often gets snow when other place are raining. The Bolton Valley Nordic Center is unique in that it has thousands of accessible acres of backcountry XC skiing. At Okemo in Ludlow, the Fox Run Nordic Center has groomed trails that are within a mile on the 18-hole golf course.
The Dashney Nordic Center near the base of and affiliated with Burke Mountain Resort (the alpine ski area) has trails groomed for classic and skate skiing through woods and over fields. Loops and terrain are varied and available for skiers of all levels on logging lanes, forgotten country roads, and rolling Vermont farmland. Dashney also has a designated dog-friendly loop at the center to bring the pooch on the outing.
The Stratton Mountain Nordic Center is at the resort’s country club and has terrain that is ideally suited for first timers and families. It is on the Stratton access road and has a retail shop and rental equipment for XC skiing and snowshoeing. There are also trails at the Sun Bowl with 20 km of tracked cross country ski trails and 50 km of backcountry skiing. Skiers can use the Sun Bowl Lodge for rentals, dining and lounging. Lessons and guided tours are available.
There are other XC ski areas in southern Vermont and one of the oldest which is directly across from the Mt. Snow access road in West Dover is Timber Creek XC. This area offers a choice of adventures on a meandering trail system known for excellent design on forested hills or atop high Green Mountain ridges that are all thoughtfully groomed offering a nice rhythm. There are separate snowshoe trails at Timber Creek, too.
The northern most XC skiing is at Jay Peak Nordic Center which has 25 km of trails groomed for classic and skate skiing on a golf course and wooded trails. Instruction and equipment rentals are available. Two-hour, naturalist-led tours on snowshoes are scheduled throughout the week in the afternoons and evenings and includes guide, snowshoes, headlamps, and poles. The Jay Peak alpine ski area is known for the most powder in the eastern US and the resort also has an indoor water park and new hotel facility.
Many people who tried the sport for the first time during the pandemic are returning to the trails and are bringing their friends and families with them. XC skiing brings people together, and gets them in touch with nature while doing something healthy, simple, and fun.
The Reciprocal program offers season pass holders from participating Vermont XC areas a one-time, complimentary, or discounted trail pass for a single day of XC skiing or snowshoeing at any other participating XC ski area. Vermont has another 20 XC ski areas across the state and click SkiVermont for a list with contact information.
